Checked Fuses. Before printing I go to home point (G28), then G29 for auto level, then G28 X0 Y0 (If I don't do this, all objects are printed with offset). yes, both motors do not turn to make z-axis move up during print. Want to print on top of an existing object? I made sure they run very smooth, which they do. Just to make sure everyone understands: This is not a friction or stuck motor issue. How do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches? Z axis not moving I just got my test running without a hot end and extruder but the z axis was way off so I went into Marlin and changed the steps per unit on the z axis to 4000 from 200, the z axis only moved a couple mills when it needed to go 20mm. Motors will no longer move. Description: Z offset is either ignored or not working as programmed Expected behaviour: Auto bed leveling happens and I expect the filament to be perfect on the bed Actual behaviour: I set my nozzle via the paper test (everything heated up) at X110 Y110 then did a G92 Z0 then I did a G30 X110 Y110 and got an offset of Z0.25. I've made the test on marlin 1.1.9 and I made slope on my bed, and I mean like 5mm difference, and it still printed fine. My 3D printer is based on the Ultimaker 2 (design). Since I am very new to Slic3r, Marlin and Repetier I suspect this is a configuration issue. Follow these steps to change your Z-offset.. (the offset number you use will depend on what M212 is currently set to and how much you need it to move) 1. enter the command "M212 Z-1" to lower your Z axis offset to -1mm. Now i have a little problem with my Z-axis. Marlin indicates this by blinking question-marks in place of X, Y and Z on the LCD screen (v1.1.8 and older) or blinking ‘?’ in place of the coordinates besides X,Y and Z (Marlin v1.1.9 / v2.0.0 and newer). Repetier-Host will connect But will not jog motors. Print starts, but Z motors only move when changing layer The bed is not right leveled. Checked Y and Z and other motors, no go. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance. I can see Z axis moving but looks like it's not moving enough, so I am ending with having one squished side and other printing in the air. I set everything up, and inverted the Z endstop in Marlin, set offset, etc. This noise is the same one that happens if I try to move the axis above around 215 millimeters/minute (around 430 RPM). Both motors turn when controlling z-axis manually. Note, motors were working prior to Re-Flash. It changing the z-offset set but not actually moving the z-axis in realtime. Sure but as I said in the first post, changing it from -1.4 to -.4 (and further) should show a noticeable difference - multiplier or not. 13 mm) to the current Z axis. LCD is not connected. After powering up a 3D printer the printer’s controller board does not know at which position its axes are. I'm using Marlin … I downloaded it onto my printer, but whenever I try to auto-level, the z motors sort of twitch and make a grinding noise. Having trouble getting your prints to stick? After couple of firmware editing and tuning I have auto bed leveling. It's not happening. Try using Z offset to adjust where your 3D printer starts printing. I can move my Z-axis manually via the menu so the … I have a custom 3D printer with a Ultimaker 1.5.7 board. Note, yes, I did power off the board completely before re-wiring. Hello, First let me introduce my 3D printer. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22 mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 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